DigitalNC: North Carolina's Digital Heritage

Background

Quilting is the process of creating textile-based materials (e.g. blankets, clothing, etc.) and is distinguished by its use of three layers: a top layer of fabric, some type of internal batting (insulating fibrous material), and a back layer of fabric. Techniques include applique, where fabric designs are stitched onto the top layer of fabric; stitch design, where the three layers are stitched together so that the stitching creates designs on the quilt; and patchwork, where pieces of fabric are stitched together to form the top layer of fabric.

This craft has been adopted by many cultures for its practical usage and as an artistic medium. Some of the earliest examples of quilting date back to the 35th century BC, evidenced in a carving of a pharaoh wearing a quilted garment. Other early examples are Mongolian quilted coverings from 200 AD and quilted cushioning for armor worn by Turkish soldiers circa the 11th century. After being exposed to the practice during the crusades, many European cultures began their own quilting practices.

It is difficult to prove if indigenous people created quilts within what is now called the United States (US) before colonization. However, there are many examples of indigenous styles of quilting after the arrival of European settlers. Indigenous people used quilting to display cultural symbols, like the Morning Star, and build community.

Over 10 million African and Black people were enslaved in the US by the 1860’s. There is evidence that many African traditions had men as the textile creators; however, slavery imposed Western gender roles onto those who were enslaved. Though women who were enslavers also continued to quilt during this time, enslaved women were tasked with creating quilts for the family that enslaved them; this is one example of how artistic labor was exploited under slavery.

From this, many African-American and Black women began their own practices of quilting. Though they typically used the patchwork style to piece together fabric scraps into a quilt, applique techniques, a technique where a piece of fabric is stitched onto the top of the top layer of fabric, were also used as a call back to African textile designs. Patchwork quilting would later be taken up by many poor and working class people as a way to make use of fabric scraps, both for the top layer of fabric and the internal batting of quilts. Patchwork styles are extremely varied.

Quilting was especially important in colder climates, like the Appalachian region of western North Carolina. Functionality gave way to artistry as people were influenced by other traditions and created their own styles of quilting. Quilting became an avenue for community through group quilting sessions and collaborative quilts to gift to community members; it also became a revenue stream as tourism increased and handicrafts became popular souvenirs.

Today, people continue to practice quilting to connect with others and develop useful skills. People have adopted the love of quilting in many different ways, like with barn quilts, referring to the painting of  large squares to resemble quilt patterns that would be hung on the outside of barns. Quilts can tell the stories of communities and relationships between people. They can represent a connection to one’s cultural heritage as much as a way to practically keep oneself warm. This primary source set explores the various relationships between people and the art of quilting as a way to understand the lives, experiences, and realities of North Carolinians throughout history.

Discussion Questions

1. Quilting Influences

   • Review the sources on Black and African-American quilting traditions: African American Family Quilts of Bertie County, N.C. and Models in the Mind: African Prototypes in American Patchwork.
     • In what ways and for what purposes has quilting been used by Black and African-American people?*
       • Why might people use arts and crafts in these ways?**
     • How have you seen people use quilting in similar ways?**
   • Study the Star Pattern quilt and notice the design elements, including pattern and color choices. Use outside research on the design as is helpful.
     • What are the elements present in the quilt?*
       • What influences can be seen in these elements?**
     • For the star pattern, what influences may have contributed to the development of this pattern?**
       • How might influences have impacted the design over time?**
       • What new meanings have become attached to the design?**

2. Quilting and Community

   • Consider the collection of primary sources in this set.
     • What sources show instances of community through quilting?*
       • What communities are represented in these sources?*
       • What communities are not represented within the sources?*
     • What can quilting tell you about life in North Carolina?*
   • Review the Glimpses of Rural Carolina excerpt.
     • What is a friendship quilt and how were they created?*
     • How did this build community ties?*
     • Are there ways that traditions like this can be passed on or incorporated into other communities?*
       • Is this a practice that you could imagine becoming important to communities you are a part of?**
   • Look at the article from Q-Notes on the AIDS memorial quilt.
     • How was this quilting project used to build community?*
       • How did this quilt bring together people from different communities?*
     • How was this quilt used for social change?*
       • What other instances of quilts being used for social change can you identify either in the primary sources, your knowledge, or research?**
       • How can different values or ideologies be expressed through quilting?**

3. History Quilts

   • Review the Rockingham Bicentennial Quilt program for information on the history quilt.
     • What histories are represented in the quilt?*
       • What histories are not represented in the quilt?**
     • How is the power of narrative shown in this history quilt?**
     • What does this quilt tell you about the perspectives on history of the quilters that contributed to this history quilt?**
   • Now contrast this with the history quilt from Mitchell Community College’s Women’s Studies History Quilt.
     • What histories are represented in this quilt?*
       • What histories are not shown through this history quilt?**
     • What message were the quilters trying to convey through this women’s history quilt?**
       • What might their perspectives be on history and women’s history in particular?**
     • How does this quilt differ from the Rockingham Bicentennial Quilt?**
       • How are they similar?**

    

   * Questions that check for comprehension

   ** Questions that involve a “deeper dive” in conceptual and historical analysis

For Teachers

• To Honor & Comfort: Native Quilting Traditions
• The Shadow of Fast Fashion: The Quilting Industry
• Connecting children's quilt literature with the Iowa Core Curriculum social studies standards

Additional Resources

• Quilt Index

• North Carolina Quilts

• Quilting series on NCpedia

• “The History of Quilting”

• “Quilting History: Practical Art”

• “The History of Quilting and Patchwork”

• “QuiltSpeak: Stories Behind The Quilts”

• “The Surprisingly Radical History of Quilting”

• “The Story Behind the Pinecone Patchwork Quilt”

• “A Spectacular Collection of Native American Quilts”

• “An Evolution of Expression”

• “African American story quilts”

• “Finding the Thread: The Tradition of African-American Quilting”

• “Quilts That Embody the Legacy of Black America”

• “The History of African American Quilt Making and Present-Day Heritage Quilts by Joan M. E. Gaither”

• “History of African Fabrics and Textiles”

• “Blue Ridge Quiltmaking in the Late Twentieth Century”

• “Appalachian Quilts”

• Blue Ridge Craft Trails - Quilting

• “Follow the Barn Quilts”

• Crazy Quilt History

• “Log Cabin Quilt”

• “Object Story: Log Cabin Light and Dark Quilt”

• “How Quilting Got Ripped Apart by American Politics”