DigitalNC: North Carolina's Digital Heritage

Background

Quilting is the process of creating textile-based materials (e.g. blankets, clothing, etc.) and is distinguished by its use of three layers: a top layer of fabric, some type of internal batting (insulating fibrous material), and a back layer of fabric. Techniques include applique, where fabric designs are stitched onto the top layer of fabric; stitch design, where the three layers are stitched together so that the stitching creates designs on the quilt; and patchwork, where pieces of fabric are stitched together to form the top layer of fabric.

This craft has been adopted by many cultures for its practical usage and as an artistic medium. Some of the earliest examples of quilting date back to the 35th century BC, evidenced in a carving of a pharaoh wearing a quilted garment. Other early examples are Mongolian quilted coverings from 200 AD and quilted cushioning for armor worn by Turkish soldiers circa the 11th century. After being exposed to the practice during the crusades, many European cultures began their own quilting practices.

It is difficult to prove if indigenous people created quilts within what is now called the United States (US) before colonization. However, there are many examples of indigenous styles of quilting after the arrival of European settlers. Indigenous people used quilting to display cultural symbols, like the Morning Star, and build community.

Over 10 million African and Black people were enslaved in the US by the 1860’s. There is evidence that many African traditions had men as the textile creators; however, slavery imposed Western gender roles onto those who were enslaved. Though women who were enslavers also continued to quilt during this time, enslaved women were tasked with creating quilts for the family that enslaved them; this is one example of how artistic labor was exploited under slavery.

From this, many African-American and Black women began their own practices of quilting. Though they typically used the patchwork style to piece together fabric scraps into a quilt, applique techniques, a technique where a piece of fabric is stitched onto the top of the top layer of fabric, were also used as a call back to African textile designs. Patchwork quilting would later be taken up by many poor and working class people as a way to make use of fabric scraps, both for the top layer of fabric and the internal batting of quilts. Patchwork styles are extremely varied.

Quilting was especially important in colder climates, like the Appalachian region of western North Carolina. Functionality gave way to artistry as people were influenced by other traditions and created their own styles of quilting. Quilting became an avenue for community through group quilting sessions and collaborative quilts to gift to community members; it also became a revenue stream as tourism increased and handicrafts became popular souvenirs.

Today, people continue to practice quilting to connect with others and develop useful skills. People have adopted the love of quilting in many different ways, like with barn quilts, referring to the painting of  large squares to resemble quilt patterns that would be hung on the outside of barns. Quilts can tell the stories of communities and relationships between people. They can represent a connection to one’s cultural heritage as much as a way to practically keep oneself warm. This primary source set explores the various relationships between people and the art of quilting as a way to understand the lives, experiences, and realities of North Carolinians throughout history.